Just out of town, Renato Keber (+39 0481 639844, ) has an ultra-modern winery and bucks tradition by ageing whites, such as pinot bianco and ribolla gialla, for at least five years. A good place to kick off in the wine-making capital, Cormòns, is at its eponymous enoteca ( ), a pulsating bar with over 100 local vintages by the glass. Winemakers generally give visitors a warm welcome, though it is always best to give them a quick telephone call before turning up. Where to taste wineįriuli produces some of Italy’s greatest white wines, from crisp friulano, the local favourite, to mineral malvasia and luscious late-harvest picolit.
The wonderfully creative chef, Maria Gilda, serves an eight-course tasting menu for a mere €30, with dishes such as stinging-nettle ravioli, slow-cooked veal cheeks with wild mushrooms and a to-die-for grape strudel. The cuisine of the Natisone valley is a mix of Italian and Slovenian influences, ideally illustrated by a long, lazy Sunday lunch at Trattoria alla Posta (Localita Clodig 22, +39 0432 725000) in the frontier village of Clodig. The cosy oak-beamed osteria Terra & Vini (mains from €10, Via XXIV Maggio 34, Brazzano di Cormòns, +39 0481 60028) is always packed with Collio viticoltori, feasting off tagliatelle with wild boar ragù, while in Cividale the latest hot address is Osteria alla Speranza (mains from €15, Piazza Giulio Cesare 15, +39 0432 731131).
Agriturismo Stekar (mains from €10, Localita Giasbana 25, San Floriano del Collio, +39 0481 391929, bio-stekar-it) is a perfect example, serving delicious goulash, fruity plum gnocchi and home-cured sausages, accompanied by the farm’s own artisan wine and beer. It was one of those moments you thank the photography gods and go home happy.Expect generous portions of traditional, no-frills friulano cooking served in family-run osterias and agriturismos that open up as restaurants at the weekend.
Had either of those elements not have happened (the quick blast of sun or the person appearing at precisely the right moment), the image would have been much less successful. I decided to stick it out until sunset, though - and I was rewarded with this brief moment where both the sun broke through for perhaps 30 seconds and simultaneously this lady walked across the fields to the cliffs and then out of sight down the other side. This area is usually popular with hikers and dog walkers, but due to the cold wind and sudden downpours there were very few people around. The potential was good, but what this shot really needed was for the sun to break through and for some people to walk along the coastal path, which would add scale and some human interest to the scene. I found a good spot to set up, with the camera on the tripod ready should any good light appear. From Sheringham, you’re looking to the west, so there’s always the chance to make something interesting at sunset. This stretch of the coastline can be very dramatic. I do like a bit of a drama in my landscapes, however, so I decided to take a chance and go for a walk along the cliffs in Sheringham. I was at home and the weather had been pretty miserable for most of the day. I think my favourite image is one that came up rather unexpectedly. As a travel photographer, it’s a great privilege to be able to gain an insight into peoples lives that may otherwise be impossible to achieve. Thankfully, the return journey was made safely in his boat, bringing back the catch and mooring in the picturesque harbour just as the sun set.
He was good company and extremely generous with his time and we spent a great day together, walking out across the salt marsh to his mussel beds, where I spent some time shooting Thomas at work, hauling in the mussels against a rapidly rising tide. I was particularly fond of Thomas Large, a mussel farmer based in Brancaster. In Morston Quay, I took a boat trip with Jason Beans, whose family has been taking visitors out to see the seals at Blakeney Point for generations. In Cley next the Sea, I met Glen Weston, who was smoking kippers at the village’s traditional smokehouse.
#YOUTUBE I WALK 500 MILES CHARMAS FULL#
North Norfolk is full of interesting characters. Who was the most interesting character you met, and why?
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